Reducing Marine Microfibre Pollution: The Role of Better Textile Materials

SUSFUTURE

World Oceans Day was celebrated on 8 June. While public environmental discussions often focus on plastic bags and straws, synthetic clothing is also a major source of marine microplastics. When we wash synthetic garments, friction in the washing machine causes tiny plastic threads to break off. A study by Plymouth University showed that washing a single 6kg load of polyester clothing can release up to 700,000 microfibres. These fibres pass through household drains, bypass municipal treatment facilities, and eventually reach the sea.

Improving textile raw materials and changing our laundry habits are practical ways to reduce plastic pollution in the oceans. To reduce the impact of these microfibres on our waterways, we must focus on the raw materials used in clothing and choose fibres that decompose more easily or can be recycled.

I. The Practical Impact of Synthetic Fibres on Marine Ecosystems

Today, over 60% of all garments contain synthetic materials, mostly polyester, nylon, and spandex.

Because these petroleum-based materials do not decompose naturally, the microfibres they shed remain in the ocean for centuries. Marine life, such as plankton and fish, eat these tiny plastics. They then accumulate in the food chain and can eventually end up on our dinner plates. Additionally, microplastics absorb other chemical pollutants in water, which increases their toxic risk to aquatic animals.

To compare how different fibres affect water environments, the SUSFUTURE Think Tank evaluated four common textile materials in the table below:

Table 1: Environmental Comparison of Textile Fibres on Marine Ecosystems

Fibre Type	Raw Material Source	Marine Degradation Period	Core Environmental Impact
Traditional Polyester	Petroleum / Petrochemicals	Centuries (Does not decompose; remains as microplastics)	Releases a large volume of fibres per wash, which absorb chemicals and enter the food chain.
Seaweed-based Fibre (SeaCell™)	Wild Icelandic seaweed powder + wood pulp	Weeks to Months (Fully biodegrades)	Developed by German company Smartfiber AG; requires no pesticides or arable land during raw material growth.
Degradable Spandex (ROICA™ V550)	Bio-based polymers and synthetic materials	Decomposes by about 50% in 24 months in active soil	Developed by Asahi Kasei in Japan; holds a Cradle to Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate.
Closed-loop Lyocell (TENCEL™)	Sustainably sourced wood pulp	3 to 6 Months (Fully biodegrades in water)	Manufactured by Lenzing AG in Austria; recycles over 99.7% of the organic solvent used in production.

II. Examples of New Sustainable Fibres in Use

Several textile technologies are currently available as practical alternatives to traditional synthetics. These materials maintain the performance of clothing while reducing the environmental load on water ecosystems.

1. Seaweed-based Fibre (SeaCell™)

SeaCell™ is a material that blends wild seaweed powder harvested from Icelandic fjords into wood pulp.

• Resource Use: Algae absorbs carbon dioxide during growth. The harvesting process does not require pesticides, freshwater, or agricultural land.

• Degradability: Because the material is made of cellulose and seaweed, the fibres biodegrade completely in water and soil. Smartfiber AG designed the technology, and the fibres are manufactured by Lenzing AG in Austria.

  
  

2. Degradable Spandex (ROICA™ V550)

Activewear and elastic clothing rely on spandex for stretch, but traditional spandex is difficult to recycle and degrades very slowly.

• Technical Progress: Japanese manufacturer Asahi Kasei developed ROICA™ V550 using bio-based polymers and synthetic components that break down in landfill and active soil environments.

• Environmental Performance: Tests show the fibre degrades by roughly 50% over 24 months without releasing harmful chemical components into the environment.

  
  

3. Closed-Loop Lyocell (TENCEL™)

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulose fibre used to replace cotton and polyester in everyday clothing.

• Production Process: Lenzing AG manufactures TENCEL™ Lyocell using a non-toxic organic solvent (NMMO) to dissolve wood pulp. The factory recycles over 99.7% of the solvent and water in a closed-loop system, which minimises chemical waste.

• Decomposition: As a cellulose-based material, Lyocell microfibres decompose in rivers and oceans within 3 to 6 months, avoiding long-term microplastic pollution.

  
  

III. Practical Recommendations for Reducing Microfibre Pollution

Addressing microfibre pollution requires changes in both product design and consumer laundry habits.

• For Designers: Brands should design garments using mono-materials, which are fabrics made of only one type of fibre (such as 100% cotton or 100% Lyocell). Mixed fabrics (like poly-cotton blends) are currently very difficult to separate and recycle in an economically viable way.

• For Consumers:

  1. Use Washing Filter Bags: Wash synthetic clothing in microfibre catcher bags, such as the Guppyfriend washing bag promoted by outdoor brand Patagonia, to collect loose fibres.

  2. Modify Laundry Settings: Wash clothes at lower temperatures and run shorter washing cycles. This reduces friction and cuts microfibre shedding by approximately 30%.

Protecting the oceans can be done through simple choices when buying and washing clothes. By choosing garments made from seaweed-based fibres, degradable spandex, and closed-loop Lyocell, and by adopting better washing habits, we can help reduce the amount of plastic waste that enters our water ecosystems.